I have not seen any Brown Recluse or any of the really dangerous spiders; however, I live in the middle of 5 1/2 ac and have webs and spiders all around the house and some inside.   What product is best to use to get rid and keep rid of these spiders?

There really isn’t a “best” product. In fact, all the products listed in our Outside Spider Treatments section of our site will do the job. I live on a river and when I first moved into my home, discovered there were more spiders here compared to where I had lived in the past. In the past 10 years I’ve tried many products (mostly since I have access to so many) and have identified a few that do the job quite well. Here’s what I suggest.

First, get yourself a good Web Remover. We have several models with varying lengths; since my home has a peak that tops out at 50 feet, I use the 30 FOOT model. From my elevated deck I’m able to remove any webs or wasp nests from the highest point of my house including this peak. Most homeowners can get away with a smaller unit but they’re all easy to use and essential if your goal is both get rid of unsightly webs and keep them off your home, this tool will be very much needed. I find myself using it 2-3 times a year; if I treat regularly following my spring/summer cleanup, I don’t have an ongoing problem. But if I wait too long in between treatments, spiders will return which in turn will cause me to go around the home doing web removal that can be prevented with ongoing treatments.

Once you’ve got a Web Remover that will allow you access to where the spiders are building nests, you’ll need to decide what combination of sprayer and product will best suit your needs. I first sprayed my house using a traditional PUMP SPRAYER using CYPERMETHRIN. It did the job fine but I found it inadequate for reaching all the high spots where spiders were nesting. I also found I needed several gallons of finished product to do a thorough job and overall the entire process took way too long to complete. Between removing webs, mixing up chemical and spraying, I was taking 1-2 hours which to me seemed too long.

Attempting to save time, I decided to try using the CYONARA RTS which uses the water pressure in my home to spray. This made it “spray” more powerful compared to my pump sprayer and since there was no mixing involved using this setup, I was able to save a lot of time. But I found myself still using a lot of product. For a short while, this was acceptable. But then mosquitoes got active and though the Cyonara will handle any flying pest, it wasn’t economical to spray over all the foliage surrounding my home. Since the mosquitoes were no doubt nesting in these shady, moist areas, I had to use a method that would enable me to tackle both pests efficiently. That’s when I started to use my BACKPACK FOGGER.

This device is easy to use, works very fast and can reach up the entire height of my house. More importantly, it allows me to use so much less chemical that over time it has paid for itself several times over. At this point all I use around my home is the BIFEN and I’ve found it to work well for mosquitoes, gnats, spiders, ants and basically any perimeter pest I might encounter. Granted the Back Pack Fogger might be more than you were expecting to spend for an applicator but over time it will pay for itself. And if you’re needing to do some mosquito control, it’s the ideal tool for any homeowner with a land mass that’s more than 1/ acre.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Outside Spider Treatments:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Web Remover:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/spider-products#web_remover

30 Foot Web Remover:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/tools/webster-30-handle-whead

Pump Sprayers:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/good/pump-sprayers

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Backpack Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

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Hello –

Can you please tell me how to get rid of this spider?

I know they live naturally in the woods but they are coming into my house (basement door, kitchen door and deck sliding glass door). It is making me want to move. Y’all helped me get rid of camelback crickets a few years ago and we haven’t seen them since.

Thanks so much,


Great image of a wolf spider! These are predatory spiders that tend to travel and forage at night. Commonly found in turf, flower beds and mulch islands, wolf spiders will be active where other insects are out and about. They don’t make nests and though some will forage into homes, they usually don’t become a major invasive pests unless you have lots of “open” locations around entry points that lead inside the home.

What’s a problematic entry point? Doorways would be number one on the list. To see if your doorways present a problem, the first thing to look for will be the weather stripping located at the bottom of the door. This needs to be sealed tight to the door frame threshold if you want to keep pests out. A good way to check is to go outside the home and try to look inside, under the door, and see if any light comes out. This works best when you do this late at night and in many cases, having someone shine a flashlight at the bottom of the door from inside the home will help reveal any weak spots. Many insects are drawn to light and if there is any peaking out under the door it would be a sure invitation to both local insects and the wolf spiders who are tracking movements. Insects are also drawn to cool temps in the summer and hot temps in the winter and direct routes into the home will assuredly allow them to enter.

Garage doors and basement doors are more likely to be vulnerable so be sure and inspect them as well. Repair these routes of entry and in most cases you’ll be able to keep the spiders (and other pests) outside where they belong. But if this doesn’t help, there are two preventive applications that can help.

The first would be to treat with some CYONARA around the entry point that has the problem. Do a general spraying over the areas just around these vulnerable points. That means spraying the ground and the foundation with a light mist, maybe 10 feet by 10 feet, so that any foraging insects or spiders will either die from the treatment or avoid the area because they sense the treatment.

If you find that spot treating described above is not working, you’ll need to do a more complete application. This will include treating the yard, mulch islands, flower beds, etc. with some BIFEN GRANULES. Next, spray over the top with the Cyonara. In most cases, doing this 2-3 times a year will keep everything in check.

Here are direct links to the products listed above:

Cyonara:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Bifen G:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

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Hi,  We live in Alabama and are looking for a product that will keep our boat house, not enclosed fully free of spyders and webs and also on pontoon boat.  If this will work how long does it stay affective?

Thanks, Richard

I keep a boat on a local lake here in Georgia and have found the PHANTOM to be ideal for both my dock and boat. It’s all I use. If your dock is like mine, there is a good chance you can’t spray a liquid since it will run off into the lake water. But the Phantom is easy to control and comes out in a really fine mist so it’s barely detectable. More importantly, it’s both odorless and goes on dry.

My dock is actually covered so it’s full of spiders nesting up around the ceiling. I have to treat up there about 2-3 times a season and by getting them up high, I’m able to eliminate the spider droppings that used to fall all over my white boat deck. But there is one catch.

Since the ceiling is about 10 feet over my boat, I use the 14 FOOT POLE with an AEROSOL HOLDER. This enables me to apply the Phantom exactly where it’s needed. This treatment also stops the mud daubers.

On the boat, I lightly mist up under my bimini top, all the railings, the seats, dash and light fixtures. I also focus in on my lift box, storage locker and cleats. It seems the spiders like the rope and cleats so these are key areas you can’t miss. It only takes a little bit 9 light misting) and since it goes on dry, you don’t even know the Phantom’s been applied when you do it right. In the spring (April-May), I find I need to treat 2-3 times a month. By June-August, I only treat 1-2 a month. By September, I usually don’t see any more spiders (at least that’s been the case the past two years).

The Phantom has also proven to be highly effective for an ant problem our dock had for several years. Every summer the dock would get covered with ants (probably due to my neighbors who grill and cook right on the deck) and again, it wasn’t possible to spray with a liquid mixture. But a light treatment with the Phantom and the ants were done. It just so happens Phantom was created for pests like ants so this turned out to be an added benefit. So if I was to suggest one product to cover it all, I’d say the Phantom for sure.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

14 Foot Pole:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/tools/unger-14ft-3-section-pole

Aerosol Holder:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/gotcha-pro-aerosol-dispenser

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We recently had our roof replaced and it now has ridge vents which require soffet vents for proper ventilation.  I am installing soffet vents but my wife is very concerned about the entry of spiders.  I am using good quality vents (they are rigid so their edges do not bow between the fasteners) and I am using a generous amount of caulk between the vent and the soffet.  Will spiders lay their eggs on the screen and result in a new generation of spiders getting into the attict.

Thank you for your time and response.

Sealing cracks and crevices will no doubt help to keep out unwanted pests. But there are so many ways these unwanted visitors can get in I’m not convinced this is a viable way to do effective pest control. In fact, we in the pest control industry refer to such effort as a type of “mechanical control”. In many situations there can be a good amount of mechanical control needed in order to solve a particular problem. But based on the situation described in  your message, I’m not sure there is any reason to believe your work will either increase or decrease the amount of spiders on your home.

That being said, we all know spiders are mostly predatory pests. And as such are likely to move on when food is limited. Which is why in our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE we explain that treating the home on a regular basis will many times keep both perimeter invading pests away as well as predatory pests. So if you aren’t yet doing some outside perimeter pest control, now would be a good time to start.

Basically treating your soffits, foundation and around other points of entry will no doubt cut down the chance of anything hanging around or entering the home. And spraying roof vents, soffit vents, downspouts, around windows and doorways will also help. A good product to use for this work is the DELTAMETHRIN featured in our article. Treatments will last 2-3 months and it works on a wide range of pests.

Alternatively you can go with an organic solution like the NBS INSECT REPELLENT. It won’t kill a thing but insects don’t like it and tend to avoid where it’s been applied. NBS can also be added to paint and stain and if you had asked about what to use prior to doing all the work you listed in your question, I would have told you to add it to your paint and you’d be covered.

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

Spider Control:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Deltamethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/suspend-sc

NBS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Filed under spider eggs by  #


I’m looking for a spider killer that’s safe to use around a a small pond/lake, one that won’t harm the fish. Last year the owners of the lake had some fish die and they wondered if I was helping or hurting their weekend get-a-way with my spray…it turned out to be low oxygen, but they still want a bit more info on what’s being used and how safe this year.

Thank you.

I’m not sure what you were using or how you were using it that might have caused concern but in general, todays products are not capable of causing any kind of impact like killing fish unless you were to deliberately treat the water in which they reside. And even then the water would have to be a small body or quantity of water and the compound used would have to be a highly concentrated formulation. In the past, many actives were comprised of 50%+ active (things like Diazinon, Malathion, Sevin, etc.) but todays actives are so much weaker that you can find many with less than 10% active in their concentrated form. These same actives when mixed with water will be so dilute they’re not able to impact anything “en mass”. This insures the casual over spray won’t do any damage. But again, not knowing what you were using, where you were using it or how much you were applying makes it hard to judge if in fact you could have done any damage because it can happen.

That being said, it’s generally accepted in the pest control industry that one should try to avoid directly treating the shoreline of any body of water such as a pond, lake or river. This is so you will have a “buffer zone” or untreated area which can absorb any runoff or overspray. This zone can effectively decrease the chance of contamination and is a good practice no matter what you’re targeting or where you’re spraying.

Lastly, when it comes to spider control, I’m not sure what if any benefit you would derive from treating close to a pond anyway so I would stay clear of it altogether. Now if you’re applying granules in the yard and someone thinks it could be running off to the pond, this could be a legitimate concern. Most all common pesticides have what we call “environmental hazard” statements and in this section of most labels one can usually find the words “toxic to fish and birds”. This generic phrase has been used for many years and no doubt can make people both leery and worried about using anything with such a strong statement. Personally I believe this is why pesticides in general have a bad rap. And though it is true the old traditional products needed these statements to help avoid misuse or mistakes, one could argue todays products are not nearly as likely to cause such impact so at the very least these statements should be reworded or at least clarified. Regardless, they still exist and no doubt make many people afraid or paranoid of whatever is being used when pond, lake or stream water is close by. In the pest control industry, we’ve learned that when dealing with concerns like this exist on any given property, the best way to deal with said concern is to use something that neutralizes the objection.

So how do you neutralize the objection? Two products that both work and are safe to use in these sensitive areas include ECO GRANULES and ECO CONCENTRATE. These low impact, exempt products use food additives as their active ingredient and in fact do not contain the strong environmental impact statements on their label. You can use them safely in these sensitive areas and the Concentrate even has labeling that allows it to be fogged and sprayed along the water shoreline. The only way it could get such labeling would be if it could be used in said area safely. And it can be used this way for many pests including spiders, mosquitoes, flies and a wide range of pests.

In summary, if you are using any of the traditional products like the BIFEN GRANULES or the BIFEN SPRAY, you can most definitely use them safely around a pond or lake. But if there is a chance of run off or any other way that might cause contamination of the water, opt instead for one of the ECO products to eliminate this concern.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

ECO Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/granule/eco-exempt-org-g-22-lb

ECO Concentrate:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Bifen Spray:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Filed under safest by  #


I have a spider problem in my house.  These are small spiders, not poisonous.  What product do you recommend that is cat-safe to spray to keep them at bay?  Thanks.


In general, you’ll need to keep pets and children away from the rooms when treating and immediately after-wards until the product dries. How long that will be can vary from 10 minutes to a couple of hours but once dry, everyone can return and go about their business without concerns or risks when products are used properly. We have very detailed safety videos which cover how to use our liquid, dust and aerosol products in the home and I suggest you review them for more of an explanation. These can be seen on our SAFETY VIDEO page.

With that being said, I would say one of the best working and easy products to start with based on the information you included above would be the PT-PHANTOM AEROSOL. This product is just about odorless, easy to use and is one of the only aerosols that goes on “dry”. I use it on my boat and even where the finish is glossy you can’t tell anything has been sprayed. I also use it in the home along baseboards and windows where anything else would be messy. I have nothing but hardwood floors in my home and liquid sprays are out of the question. But the Phantom goes on without making a mess or any other sign, treatments last 1-2 months and it doesn’t have any odor. I time my treatments for when I know we’ll be out of the home for a few hours and when we return, there is no clue anything has even been applied.

Additionally, you should get into some kind of outside treatment program as explained in our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE. The use of some CYONARA on a regular basis (maybe every 2-3 months) would keep most any pest at bay and in the end, negate the need to be spraying inside. I use the Cyonara outside my home following this exact schedule and find I only have to spray the Phantom 1-2 a year inside for the occasional pest that gets in.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Safety Videos:  http://www.bugspray.net/video/product-safety-first

Phantom Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html

Spider Control:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Cyonara:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_ec.html

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I have a home problem with browns and would like to know the best way to treat them. Mostly in my sons attic. Also will the smell of peppermint deter them?

If you read through our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll see we have several products that can be used on and around the home. However, you won’t find peppermint listed as a repellent since we have not seen any data to suggest it will help. But what does work well when it comes to treating attic spaces is DRIONE DUST. It not only lasts 6-12 months, it’s highly repellent to most any insect or arachnid making it ideally suited for long term protection in this area of the home where a lot of pests like to nest.

For starters, I’d go with the Drione Dust and get it applied throughout the space using the DUSTIN MIZER. I also recommend getting some SPIDER TRAPS to set up in the living spaces. They’ll help monitor the areas so that if any brown recluse spiders are active in other areas of the home besides just the attic, you’ll be able to tell from what the traps catch and take appropriate action accordingly.

Additionally, I suggest you start spraying the outside of the home to prevent more from getting inside. The DELTAMETHRIN is a great product for this use with treatments remaining active for up to 2-3 months. It’s odorless and easy to apply with any standard PUMP SPRAYER.

Here are links to the products and information listed above:

Spider Control Article:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/hidden-areas

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page349.html

Dustin Mizer:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page160.html

Spider Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page166.html

Deltamethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page70.html

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-eliminator

Filed under how to treat by  #


My sister lives in Georgia. Older home with Cedar Shingle Siding. Spiders love to nest all over the house. I know there is a liquid web treatment that will prevent spiders from creating new webs for a period of time but I don’t remember the name. Can you advise and is the product available to the public? The name Web Master rings a bell but I can’t find it on line.

We use to carry one called Cobweb Eliminator which worked great but it’s been taken off the market.  A couple of years ago the EPA mandated tougher testing and that these products get “registered”. This is in response to a lot of products coming to market claiming to do something but in fact they didn’t really work at all. Since the data on all these products were marginal and when compared to more traditional sprays they didn’t work nearly as well, all the companies making them ceased production. Since then the only one now in production is WEB OUT. It’s federally exempt from needing a registration because it’s made from ingredients the government has deemed to be safe for use around people, pets and the environment. In fact Web Out works quite well and a long time too.

As for the traditional products; a good active would be CYPERMETHRIN. It works on a wide range of pests and where sprayed nothing will nest or make webs.  Apply it with a  PUMP SPRAYER or via our COBWEB REMOVER. Personally I like to mix up some product in a sprayer and then spray the head of the Web Remover as I use it on my house and boat. When removing webs I’m making a point of wiping the head over the areas which effectively leaves some of the chemical spray behind on the surface I’m cleaning. This allows me to get the product in the favorite locations spiders seem to target without wasting excessive spray. Also, my sprayer doesn’t reach high enough in many areas but I use the 14 ft Web Remover and it reaches fine.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Web Out:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/web-out-spider-spray

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-eliminator

Cobweb Remover:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1228.html

14 ft Cobweb Remover:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2121.html

Filed under web removal by  #


The last few mornings I have killed 5 spiders that jump.  My daughter just came out of the bathroom frightened because she seen one of these pests too.  I looked up spiders, but I am not finding any that look like the ones that we are having.  We live by the river in an old home.  The is a lot of moisture in our area.  I thought maybe it was a jumping spider.  I am not sure.  Can you tell me if they are like the brown recluse?  Are they as dangerous as those?  Any information would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you!

If you read through our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn there are only a few potentially dangerous spiders in North America. And though quite common, jumping spiders are not one of the most dangerous. However, most every spider can bite and many carry venom of some kind. In general these “lower dose” spiders won’t pose nearly as much of a threat as the big three (Black Widow, Brown Recluse and Hobo) but there is always the chance of the person being bit as having an allergic reaction to the bite. In fact, this is more common than you might imagine and it’s thought that vast bulk of unidentified insect bites reported and needing treatment annually are from spiders.

For this reason more than most is how one can justify the act of doing some kind of preventive pest control around the outside of most any building which will house people. By doing so you can almost always keep unwanted pests from entering because once they do, more invasive treatments will be needed. At this point if you’ve seen 5 jumping spiders, there must of been a nest on or in the home that recently released a developing brood. Once mature, they’ll start foraging out in many different directions. No doubt some have left the building but in all likelihood, many have moved inside as well. For now I’d keep watching and inspecting to see if you find them in other areas of the home and treat accordingly.

In summary, I would first advise against handling any spider you find in or on the home. Second, it would be prudent to apply some of the DELTAMETHRIN to the outside of the home to prevent anymore from wandering inside. I’d also set up some SPIDER TRAPS in any room where activity has been seen or suspected. Jumping spiders are naturally a foraging spider and will many times move around a lot more than most so the traps work well on them. Lastly, if you discover more inside, spot treating with the BAYGON AEROSOL would be a sure way to knock out any you may have missed.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Spider Control Article:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control

Deltamethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page70.html

Spider Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page166.html

Baygon Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page163.html

Filed under how to treat by  #


I have a 2 story house with a complete finished basemant. I just killed a brown recluse spider which froze when my 2yr old said look mommy bug and was about to grab it. I am terrified that there are more or will be more need to know what exactly to use and how to use it.

To start with, you need to read our BROWN RECLUSE SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE which covers all you need to do both inside and outside the home. At this point I’m thinking you at least need to get out a bunch of SPIDER TRAPS to monitor the problem and see just how bad it is. If you don’t catch another spider, you can chalk this one up to a random happening. But if you start finding them being trapped every few days, you’ll no doubt need to do some treating and just where will be based largely on where they’re nesting and consequently, where to treat. Should this happen, give us a call and we’ll further advise.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Spider Control Article:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control

Spider Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page166.html

Filed under how to treat by  #


I just bought a rent house with pier and beam construction under oak floors. The crawl space is pretty large, enough for a man to crawl through easily.

Is it a good idea to dust the crawl space under the house with the same dust I used in my home attic that I bought from you? I forget what it is, but it replaced Ficam W. I use a B&G sprayer I bought from you to use at home in my attic.

Also, the house has vinyl siding installed over the old weathered wood siding, and there are a LOT of small spider webs under the siding bottom edges. I sprayed the siding, eaves, and the grass along the foundation line with Cynora mixed .4 oz. per gallon. Is that an effective treatment for those spiders?

I assume it would be a good idea to brush off the old webs and new ones as they appear?

I also sprayed the garage rafters and baseline and under shelves, as there were a LOT of spiders in there, and inside in crack and crevice and closets. I plan to go back later and vacuum up the old webs.

The rent house family are friends of mine, and have small kids that play in the yard a lot, so I hesitate to use granular insecticide or hose end spray on the lawn, unless you have some idea of something that will not harm the kids if they play on it.


First, I don’t know what dust you have in place of the Ficam but the DELTA DUST or DRIONE would be fine. The BG DUSTER would be ideal for such an application so you’re set equipment wise.

Second, brushing off the old spider webs is very much recommended. Use one of our WEB REMOVERS to make the task easy; they come in various lengths depending on how high you have to reach. By removing the webs you’ll be able to now monitor the situation to see if new ones are coming around and if yes, where to treat. Additionally, spider webs tend to harbor spider eggs. Leaving them on the home can allow the young to prosper once they hatch so get rid of any you find to remove any spider egg sacs that could be laying out of site.

Lastly, I understand why you might not want to use the BIFEN GRANULES in the yard with the kids playing. This product is actually quite safe and poses no hazard when used as described in our safety video on it’s product page. And the ECO GRANULES are a good alternative if you want something organic. Made from food grade actives, they pose no hazard at all and though they won’t last as long as the Bifen, they do work on a wide range of perimeter pest invaders. However, in this case, I’m not sure you’ll get a lot of help from them unless you have other pest problems. You cite web making spiders and these are most likely coming in from surrounding trees and floating in the air and not from the ground. So if your only concern here is for the spiders, I don’t think granules will help much anyway but if you have other pests, definitely get them deployed.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Delta Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/452825.html

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page349.html

BG Power Duster:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/electric-duster/bg-2250-duster

Web Remover:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/other-equipment/web-removers

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page71.html

ECO Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/eco_exempt_g_granules.html

Filed under how to treat by  #


What would be the most effective product for spraying a boat dock to eradicate spiders and their droppings that are making a mess?

Thanks, J.S.

I started using the Phantom Aerosol we have posted here:


It’s very different compared to any other aerosol in that it goes on dry when used properly. So a light misting over my boat railings where the cover snaps on won’t leave any “wetness” on the cover or the deck of the boat. I’ve been using it on my boat for over a year and I’ve been spraying my trolling motor, anchor, deck, lights, bimini top frame (where spiders love to make webs), on and around my dock box and slip edge. There is no “overspray” marks on my gelcoat, chrome or any other place on my boat to show I’ve sprayed so it’s pretty much invisible on these sensitive areas which before would leave all kinds of marks and sometimes even damage if I tried to spray anything directly on these same surfaces.

And since my dock is covered, I find them nesting above my boat so I keep a 14 foot collapsible pole:


Which I fitted with an aerosol holder and trigger string like this:


I also keep a web remover top:


So at the beginning of the spring (for us in GA, that would be the start of March) I apply some Phantom to my boat ( I don’t treat the ceiling just yet). That one treatment usually lasts till April and I apply some again to the boat only. When we get to May, the webs really start getting bad and that’s when I treat everything including the ceiling. Usually I only have to treat the ceiling once for the whole season but the boat I’ll treat twice a month and I’ll remove webs as needed. What I find is that the treatment seems to last a good 2 weeks during May-June and into July. At some point in July the treatments last longer but I’m sure it’s because the local spider pressure is decreasing so there simply aren’t as many coming on board. All I know is by July-August-Sept, I only have to spray once a month a little bit and I have very little if any spider webs to remove. Right now I do find some webs on my boat but the treatments, because they’re still fresh, seem to kill the spiders so they don’t get established. It sure is nice not having any spider poo on the boat and when I take out the family, we’re not fighting any spiders dropping down on our heads.

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Hi, I’m finding those ugly, sometimes black and sometimes beige huge spiders in my house. What should I do? I’ve sprayed the room with “Baygon for roaches and ants” because that’s the strongest one in the market by me. Is it enough? How often should I spray and where? The floor in my house are tiles and I live on the last floor in our building. Also, it’s really hot here. What should I do? I have 2 babies and fear a lot for them. The spiders I see here are like the lower right one in the above picture on your website page. I really hope you an help me. Thanks a lot.

First, you’ll only know if “it’s enough” based on the results. If you’re still seeing active spiders, you’ll need to treat some more. Additionally, you didn’t mention if you sprayed outside or not. Spraying the perimeter of the home – outside on the foundation and in the turf – is paramount to solving the problem as explained here:


No doubt spiders come in from the outside if you aren’t treating the outside perimeter of the building, I’m afraid you’ll have a never ending stream of them finding their way to your living spaces.

As for the frequency you need to treat; this will depend on the level of the problem. With the products we have listed in our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE, they generally only need to be applied once every 1-2 months.

For the tiled floor you mentioned; the PT PHANTOM AEROSOL would be the better option here over the liquid since it’s designed for these areas. It’s virtually odorless and goes on dry to the touch and not messy. No doubt spiders pose a hazard to people and pets as their venom is something most all people can have a reaction to which is why we don’t like having them in our homes. Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Outside Spider Control: http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Indoor Spider Control:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control

PT-Phantom: http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html

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I live in Michigan and have a problem with spider webs, on a daily basis.  They are all over the decking, underneath, on  my black metal balusters(posts), etc.
What is the best product to spray and how long wil
l it last?

As you will learn in our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE, the best way to beat this pest and their webs is to treat all the areas they like to nest. The best product for this job is the DELTAMETHRIN. Long lasting and repellent to spiders, it will both kill what’s living on your home and prevent new ones from coming around. We recommend doing a good web removal cleanup first using one of our SPIDER WEB REMOVERS first. This will allow you to treat the open areas thoroughly without obstructions.

When spraying, be sure to get up under decking as best as possible, They also like to live in the corners of the home, up under eaves and soffits and around doorways and windows. A light treating in these key areas will go a long way.

Here are direct links to all the information and products mentioned above:

Spider Article:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Deltamethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page70.html

Web Removers: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2121.html

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I live on an Island will I see more of these spiders than someone who lives more inland?

Spiders are unique in that they don’t all migrate and move about the same way as they develop. True they can all walk. But when it comes to “leaving the nest”, they do it many different ways. Some spiders carry their young on their backs. When old enough, the young will simply move off and leave.

Other spiders abandon eggs and young are forced to live on their own from their very first moments upon hatching out. Still others relocate by leaving their mothers web home when old enough to forage on their own.

But there are many species of spiders which “parachute” to relocate. This is the process of creating a small web like umbrella which serves as a type of parachute. This umbrella can many times pick up and relocate spiders great distances. It’s pretty amazing how far some can be redirected so even if your island is several miles offshore, there is no doubt in my mind that some species should be able to find it under the right conditions. And if you find some appearing and need to do some spider control, review our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE which covers most every needed treatment option for any given situation.

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