Spiders can be a persistent pest in and around the home. Their webs are unsightly and spider droppings are messy. To control spider infestations, you need to treat the outside and inside areas of the home. This article will go over in great detail all you need to know about spider control. Topics covered will be basic spider biology, the problems spiders present, the best professional pest control products for spider control and how to use them for… Read more on spider control

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Is it a good idea to lay cedar chips up against the perimeter of the house to protect against brown recluse spiders?

Not really. In fact it’s never a good idea to lay any kind of mulch up tight to the foundation. You see, all mulch will do is to preserve if not create heat on it’s underside (where it contacts the ground). This heat will no doubt attract insects. And when you have insects living right up alongside the home, the odds of some getting inside are greatly increased.

Now if you must have mulch like cedar chips or pine straw up tight to your homes foundation, be sure to apply some BIFEN GRANULES to it every 2-3 months. This way the Bifen will kill off all the insects that attempt to move into this prime real estate.

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

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What is the best time of year (what month?) in Raleigh NC to start applying spider control products?

The time to start doing some preventive treatments is once you start noticing any kind of flying insect activity. White flies, gnats, midges, moths and other flying insects are all spider food and if the food is active, so too will be the predator’s.

To get more specific, we’re located just outside Atlanta GA and typically I’ll have to start treating in April. But given the mild winter we’ve had, I’ve seen several spiders already so I’ll be doing some applications this week.

I also keep a boat at a local lake and it too is already showing newly formed spider webs which is a sure sign there is activity. To get ahead of all these pests, you need to treat early on in the season. And based on where Raleigh NC is in relation to Atlanta, I wouldn’t be surprised if things are nearly as active in your region as they are here so I’d say to start now.

Outside Spider Treatments: http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

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We’ve got several products that can be used effectively to take care of brown recluse spiders. The key is treating the right areas. If you review our article, you’ll learn it covers how to treat the outside of the home, the inside living areas of the home as well as attics and crawl spaces. Each of these areas require different types of products to get the best results and for starters, I’d say to get the CYONARA to mix up and spray along with some PHANTOM AEROSOL.

If it turns out they’re in your attic or other hidden space, get one of the dusts like the DRIONE or DELTAMETHRIN. More details on these products can be found in our article posted here:

Spider Control Inside:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-inside

Spider Control Outside:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Cyonara:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Deltamethrin Dust:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

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From looking a photos, we seem to have black widows living in our attic, around document boxes. Spray has helped, many dead, was thinking of a bomb next. What do you suggest? Do we need to get into the boxes for the bomb to reach well enough? What chemical is best for this guy?

Based on where the problem is and the fact that you have boxes, I would limit the treatment to an aerosol. I would also refrain from using a traditional “bomb” because they are usually oily and smelly which could affect your documents. Furthermore, bombs won’t move around the space properly and in the end, there is a good chance many spiders will survive or not be affected because of their location relative to the placement of any 2-3 aerosol bombs.

A much better option would be to use a product called PT-PHANTOM. It’s odorless and very effective on spiders. Furthermore, it goes on “dry”. So between it being odorless and going on dry, the Phantom would be the ideal product to use.

To treat, you’ll need to go up to the space and start at the furthest point away from the exit door. The Phantom can is manually operated (used like a can of hair spray) and all it will take is a light misting over the boxes and any area you want to treat. To give you an idea of how it would be used, for the average 20x20x20 box, a mere 1-2 second spray over the top is all you’d need to apply. This means it won’t take long to do nor will it use a lot of material.

Of course I highly recommend spraying as much of the space as possible but for the first run, I’d focus on the boxes. Next, I’d let the treatment sit for 2-3 days to insure the Phantom has enough time to do it’s work. Phantom isn’t detectable by pests so they won’t know it’s there. This means they’ll readily walk on treated surfaces and by letting it stay for a few days, you’ll insure all the target pests are dead. Furthermore Phantom is not a contact kill so it won’t kill them for a day anyway. Again, this is by design. Slow working means it has a chance of infiltrating more pests and in the end, is a much better mode of action compared to traditional products.

Lastly, I recommend treating this way at least once every 3 months; every 2 months would be ideal. This way no spiders or other pests will be able to come around. Personally I use the Phantom on my boat because it goes on invisible, is odorless and works great on spiders. I also use it in my home because I have hardwood floors which are easily marked with traditional sprays. But the Phantom goes on invisible and stays that way all the while taking care of spiders and any other pests we may have inside.

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

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I live in a modular home and have had to do some work underneath the home when installing television cables for various rooms. I have been told by the handy man that there are groves of spiders underneath my home. It is damp underneath the home and I need advice on how to rid these spiders. I know I first need to try and control the moisture but how? Then I need a pesticide to keep them away. Please help.

Controlling the moisture under the home should be considered. In fact, most insect problems arise because of poor air circulation. Is the home located on a low water table or get ocean/lake flooding or is the moisture more related to humidity? If it’s from humidity, the first thing you would want to do is to have some TEMP VENTS installed. These can really help. Basically they’ll open and close as is needed which in turn will allow air to flow through the space. In most cases, this is all these spaces will require.

If the automatic vents aren’t enough, consider installing a POWER VENT. Basically it will do the same thing but for spaces where the air is stagnant and doesn’t move, the power vents can be all the difference needed. They’ll literally “suck out” the air and moisture and can be controlled via HUMIDITY THERMOSTATS or TEMPERATURE THERMOSTATS.

Lastly, if you know the humidity is high under the home because it’s coming from the soil of the space, install a MOISTURE BARRIER. This plastic will be “sealing” out the moisture and when combined with one of the Vents mentioned above, can help when the moisture is coming from the ground.

As for the spiders, once the moisture problem is resolved, applying some DELTAMETHRIN DUST with a DUSTIN MIZER once a  year is all you’ll need to do. It’s easy, long lasting, odorless and works on all pests. In fact you could apply it right now in the damp space and still get positive results. The difference with treating a moist space compared to a dry space is in the length of time the dust will last. When dry, it will last a year or more. But if the space is damp, expect to retreat quarterly to keep the active working and the spiders under control. So even though it won’t last as long, you can no doubt get rid of the spiders right away if you desire.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Temp Vents:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/temp-vents/temp-vent-black

Power Vents:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/temp-vents/temp-vent-powered-black

Humidistats:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/temp-vents/temp-vent-humidistat-18109

Thermostats:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/temp-vents/temp-vent-thermostat

Poly Moisture Barrier:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/temp-vents/poly-4-mil-10-x-100

Deltamethrin Dust:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Dustin Mizer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustin-mizerdeflector



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What are the health effects of breathing and or being involved in a rather large clean up of spider droppings?

We use gloves and a peroxide based cleaner that does well. In the past I’ve seen bird dropping clean ups that uses respirators. I know spider carry Lyme disease as well as ticks. What are my risks?

Any kind of fecal matter can carry bacteria or virus. The real key is the main component of the feces (what it’s made from) along with the local air moisture. In general, the more complex the feces, the more fertile (better chance) material for bad things to prosper. Add a good dose of moisture to the mix and the recipe is ripe for a all kinds of contaminates.

This is why it’s always best to neutralize any potentially harmful or dangerous organisms that might be present. To do this, you’ll need a special cleaner like ROUGH N’READY. Lightly spray over the area prior to cleanup and you’ll be killing all the bad stuff.  It works great on virus and bacteria and can make the area a lot safer for cleanup.

You should also wear RUBBER GLOVES or SURGICAL GLOVES along with a decent RESPIRATOR. By avoiding skin contact and breathing filtered air, the risk of getting exposed to anything will be greatly reduced.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Rough N’Ready:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/rough-and-ready

Rubber Gloves:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/gloves-nitrile-9-mil-pr

Surgical Gloves:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/latex-gloves-l-100box

Respirator:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/wilson-freedom-respirator

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Every fall, we get wolf spiders coming into our garage, like 4 or 6 each nite! We see one occasionally in the basement.

We would like to use bifen granules around the perimeter, but are worried about our dog, who lays out in the yard a lot, and our 2 year old grandson who plays outside. Is it safe to use where children and pets run?

We live in Northwest PA

When used as directed, BIFEN GRANULES won’t pose a hazard to the pets or children. Remember, they’ll be dispersed over a large area and when done properly, it will be nearly impossible to tell they’ve been applied. That’s because they’ll be spread so thin. Just be sure to keep everyone away from the area during the treatment and within a few hours, they can safely return. We also have a video at the bottom of the Bifen product page which covers everything you need to know regarding it’s safe use and storage. I suggest you review this short presentation too. Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

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We live in North Carolina in the mountains. My husband put in some terracing this spring on our hill side so I could put in a garden. Since doing so I have found and squished dozens of black widows. I thought it was localized to the back yard but I found one on a planter my 3 year old son was playing with in the front yard. My little boy loves to play outside in the dirt and rocks but I feel I can’t let him for fear he’ll get bitten. What can I do to get rid of them?

Like any pest, if you want to keep local populations minimized you’ll need to do some pest control. This process will involve different treatments for different areas. We have it all covered in our on line article which goes over what’s needed for inside the home, outside the home and for hidden areas like attics and crawl spaces.

Since it’s the outside you’re mostly concerned about, I suggest you start there. Read the below link and get some treatments done now, before the cold of winter arrives, which will help keep them from entering the home. There is no doubt a good treatment regime throughout the year will keep these guys minimized so they won’t pose a threat to you or your son. Here is a link to the outside treatment suggestions:


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Hi, I have a wolf spider problem. 3000 sq ft 1960 split level. Please advise how to solve. They seem stronger than the Orthodox home defense. Thanks.

Wolf spiders are fast moving, predatory spiders that can cover a large area when feeding. For this reason it’s important to get the ground treated. Especially mulch areas. They like to live in pine straw, wood chips and even under cut grass that’s left lying in the yard. To keep their numbers down inside the home, it’s important to spray the foundation outside and apply granules to at least a 10 wide band around the home.

For spraying, go with the CYPERMETHRIN featured in our OUTSIDE SPIDER CONTROL reading. This active is both toxic to spider and repellent. They tend to avoid treated surfaces so it will keep them at bay where applied. But it will also kill any that are nesting in the area. Unfortunately it’s not the best at penetrating any ground nests that might be present nor does it last as long as a good granule.

For that you’ll need to apply some BIFEN. Designed to handle water well and soak into the ground, the Bifen should be applied all the way around the home every 2-3 months. But don’t be afraid to treat a larger area, like the entire yard, if you have reason to believe the spiders are living anywhere on your land.

Once under control, the Cypermethrin and Bifen should be applied every 2-3 months to keep things under control. And if you have activity inside, the Cypermethrin can be used there too.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Outside Spider Control:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

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Is there anything you can put on window screens and screens on a screened in porch?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. We live on a lake which I fear makes the spider problem worse, they are everywhere.

Thanks for any help.

No doubt spiders seem to be more of a problem around lakes. My personal thought is that it’s directly due to the abundance of flying insects. I keep a boat at a local lake and it invariably is covered with webs if I don’t treat it regularly with an aerosol called PHANTOM. This odorless, “dry” formulation is well suited for the boat and other hard to treat surfaces like a window screen. At the house I use it for several screened windows as well as the baseboard areas in rooms with hardwood floors. It’s so efficient you can’t even tell where it’s been applied so it’s good for areas like this. That “no wet” look after spraying is a big advantage to using it.

I also suggest you review our SPIDER CONTROL ARTICLE and get one of the concentrates we have listed to use around the entire perimeter of the home. No doubt keeping the home treated can really help and if you’re not addressing the rest of the structure, I’m afraid the windows will be harder to keep spider free.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Spider Control: http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

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I live down the road from you in tucker and wanted to get your advice on what to spray or do to eliminate a repeat infestation of tiny spiders. I have been knocking away their webs with a broom for a couple of years but they don’t get the hint.. They are pretty well isolated to one or two areas and they are at the ceiling level of the basement near a light fixture and the A/C duct work. I’ve been reluctant to spray anything due to the fact that my cat hangs out in the basement a couple of hours a day. Any ideas? – the spiders are tiny, about the size of a grain of salt.

If you’re not treating around the outside of your home a regular basis with some kind of residual, it’s highly likely you’ll get some kind of perimeter invader. One of the common invaders are in fact spiders. As spring turns to summer, the newly born young will forage out and that’s when they’ll infiltrate unprotected homes. It sounds like you have outside foraging spiders getting inside which in turn will cause the inside infestation.

Now that you’ve got them, I recommend using the Phantom Aerosol. This odorless formulation is ideal for use in the home because it has a unique design that won’t make a mess when applied properly. I use it in my home all the time and can do so even though I have nothing but hardwood floors. A light misting is all that’s needed and you can use it up on the ceiling where you’re finding the activity as well. I actually get my problems mostly around the baseboard but the Phantom handles them easily. I’ve found the treatments will last 1-2 months and Phantom will handle all the common pests we have in the region. In most years I only have to treat 2-3 times a year and we remain pest free. I suggest you treat these key areas with the Phantom along with locations where you think they might be entering.

Ultimately treating the outside will prove more productive. Using a good residual like BIFEN can be quite helpful in preventing anything from entering the home and again, you’ll want to do this 3-5 times a year here in GA to keep out the normal perimeter invaders like ants, roaches, crickets, spiders, etc out of the home.

Regarding the safe use of these products; both are safe for use in and around the home when used properly. We have “safety videos” at the bottom of each product page which covers all the practical information you need to know regarding the proper handling, use and storage of our products and I suggest you review them too.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom Aerosol:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

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We live in California Central Valley and summertime brings a lot of black widows. This year seems greater than normal and in the backyard. Other consideration is keeping our cats alive. Your recommendation for an effective product is greatly appreciated.

Black widows love California and you’re right, they pose a major hazard to any mammal. Their neurotoxins can shut down major organs quickly and the smaller the animal, the more dramatic a bite can be. Certain pets are more likely to unknowingly play with black widows and cats would be right up there on that list. Fortunately there are effective treatments to help remove the potential for this happening.

If you read through our Outside Spider Treatments article, you’ll see links to several products that can handle black widow infestations. Be sure to remove all the webbing you find and then spray with one of the actives listed. The DELTAMETHRIN is a great choice. Odorless, easy to use and safe when applied properly, you can spray it both outside and inside the home if needed. But be sure and treat the turf with some Bifen Granules to give yourself a black widow free buffer zone around the home.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Outside Spider Treatments:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

Deltamethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/suspend-sc

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

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I have been paying Orkin for almost a year to control my Recluse problem and it seems I still find a lot in my glue traps.  I am sure my attic has a problem, but they do not seem to want to approach this and my basement has a bit of activity.  Lately, I have seen large ones in my traps by my doors.  Maybe due to mating?  My main inquiry is what is the difference in your products compared to theirs?  I want these spiders gone, so I called an “expert”, but I see no improvement.  Also, is there a way to treat my attic, like a fogger since it is hard to reach.  Thanks for the reply and your time.

First,  I suggest you read through our BROWN RECLUSE CONTROL article. In the article, all the best products are featured for each type of common location found around most any home. Bear in mind what we sell are what professionals use so to answer your question regarding your service company treatments; you can get from us what they use if you prefer to stick with those products or you can change over to what we recommend. The one thing you’ll learn when it comes to the professional line is that there are many options and most companies will limit their product selection to the items that work the best for a wide range of pests when performing service stops. This way they’re basically “prepared” for the more common problems they’ll need to handle. But spiders – especially brown recluse – require more specialized actives. Since we are a supplier, we use the approach of recommending the best actives for any given problem so though we’ll have what your service company is using, we are probably recommending something else and these recommendations are based on years of comparing different actives to isolate the ones which perform the best in the field.

Second, treating what we call “hidden” areas of the home are important. Attics and crawl spaces are key locations that should be addressed and as you’ll learn in our Attic Treatments section of the article, the use of something like DRIONE DUST will almost always be your best option. Mostly due to how long this active will last compared to aerosols or liquids, a good treatment done with a dust only needs to be done 1-2 a year making it more efficient in the long run. Use one of the dusters featured in our spider PRODUCTS PAGE.

Lastly, if your service company isn’t treating outside just yet, you will need to do some Outside Treatments for sure if you wish to stop the invasion. In most cases, perimeter pests can be controlled from the outside and by getting them before they get inside, you’ll learn they’re a lot easier to control.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Brown Recluse Control Article:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control

Attic Treatments:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/hidden-areas

Drione Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Spider Products:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/spider-products

Outside Treatments:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

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We just got a house that now seems to have brown recluse spiders. We have only found them in own master bedroom and we think that they are coming from inside the house most possible the attic and not from outside. Will bombing the house work?

No. At best aerosol treatments for spiders are just “okay” and that can only happen when using something like PHANTOM. But TOTAL RELEASE FOGGERS are quite limited and really only work in the immediate open area of the room where applied. Spiders, like many pests, will be hidden and tend to avoid the treated area. The net result is yeah, you might kill 10-20 % of the local population but in the end, there will be so many still alive and kicking you will feel as if you did nothing but waste your money.

I suggest you read our brown recluse TREATMENTS article, you’ll learn the best way to handle this problem. In your situation, it’s quite possible you’ll need to treat some HIDDEN AREAS like wall voids or attics. You might also have to treat OUTSIDE AREAS of the home in case you think they’re foraging in.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom Aerosol:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Total Release Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/indoor-fogger-6-oz

Inside Treatments for Spiders:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-inside

Hidden Area Treatment for Spiders:  http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/hidden-areas

Outside Treatments for Spiders: http://www.brownrecluse.com/brown-recluse-spider-control/spiders-outside

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